Punctuality to your self lands the shot.
“I remind myself, as I patiently wait, thinking how many things I have changed in me to reach where I am now, while I float amongst an echoing serenity and relentless, blistering heat. Then, without any warnings, my attention is swallowed and engulfed.
Unconsented, my body reacts and turns abruptly from its stare and smile mode. I find myself coming in hot; I pick a line, my quick paddles fume braids of stoke and froth behind me; unexpected amongst a stagnating dead flow of peering eyes, a bomb set swells the horizon setting most to scramble in a frenzy. I perpetrate a stealth dance, a strong stallion paddle across, towards the furthest peak, and immediately, with Neptunian accuracy, I swing into the fall of a watery ramp, eyeing and charging with mouth-watering acceleration towards the bottom of the wave. Chasing to set my cross-hair as low as possible, a tower of salty H2o quickly builds up in front of me. I begin sticking my rear out as high as I can, unable to avoid thinking that I’m only doing it right if I could park a bike there. I collect as much energy on my feet from the speed downwards as I gradually bend my knees and build up the pressure. Reaching the moment where the wave won’t tower up anymore, in a split second, I take a mental picture, toying eternally with the vertiginous glassy sight of the mural of water right in front of me. Waiting to squeeze maximum velocity without wrecking myself, I start turning my hips, setting bearings towards the cusp – the top of the mural -then I swing them anti-clockwise to face, target and point beyond my 12:00 o clock. Transferring energy and speed towards the climb, I trip on the dying speed that erects and launches my board almost upright and vertical. At the top now, I invest all remaining impulse into throwing my hips clockwise, aiming to point the nose of the board to my six o-clock, axing the space between us, releasing the pressure of the tail with my left foot while it vomits a puncturing squirt. Immediately, I’m launched forwards on an un-avoidable steeper higher ramp -The lip at the top broke, pushing me forward as I swing and drop to the bottom of the wave. Launching the new drop, I snatch the next rounder section faster than the previous one; bending lower from the bottom, I stick my bum up like I never have before. I turn my back up again and erupt in a peacock feathering spray of watery pyrotechnic splendour from a samurai swing which I have been savouring blindly with lust for a while now
I got it! I shout to myself, picking up my arms and waltzing back out to the lineup, leaving in my wake, jaw-dropping spirits and white envious approval.”
Excerpt from the unwritten book of Mentawai Turns “the Bengi Bengi diaries.” Chapter
Most of us, spend the first 15 years of our lives doing what we are told. Then we spend the next 15 years trying to do what we want. By the time we are 40, after too many beers and burgers amongst other stuff we are re-born, and end up with who or what we are. The dawning of our 40th birthday is when we should be peaking at something, ready to engage and enjoy life pretty much like when we where 15, only now, knowing much better. At 40 the past releases your life, death is re-negotiated, and its endurance is forcibly understood. Turning 40 is the cusp and intersection of thought and movement; mastery of such along the closing and opening of cycles from spinning around things of great matter or things that we thought mattered. -I’m saying that you either can surf very well, or should be ready to surf very well soon, amongst other sorts of things.
In surfing, we iterate the steps to follow for turns, barrels and moves on the wave, striving to perfect being at the right place, right time. Following fervent desire, taking off for the glory of the picture or just for the fun of it.
The owners of Mentawai Surf Camp are both turning 40 this year. They came together once 12 years ago, quite graciously under a cosmic gamble perpetrated by lusting whims. Peppered with decades-long lucky stars, they gave birth to an operation with a heuristical process of serving each other and their guests. In an attempt to stay relevant, to re-create every day, exploring and finding out that which they don’t know they don’t know, on their 40th birthday, they would like to keep sharing with you parts of their process and inviting you to come over and be a part of it.
Some insights I have learned from the past years living in remote Indonesia
A harmonious symphony of life resonates in the Mentawais; precise timing, mental and physical strength and epic rides. Epic meaning that it will flog, caress and awaken you. One did not know that such flavours existed; one did not realise that such sweetness is possible. Most likely it will own you until you re-arrange your life around it. Serve it, ride it endlessly, pull in, trim, slice and get spit all over when coming into the glory, of being one particular with the wave.
There is Preparation, Faith and Will involved in this.
“Where there’s a will there’s a Wave.” – MSC, 2010
Read more: How to get to the Mentawai Islands
When Colonists landed in South America over 500 years ago, Colombia to be precise, they traded amicably with the local tribes for their gold, with something the tribes had never seen before. – I assume it was a mesmerising discovery for the tribes and a great deal at that time, to say the least: they traded their gold for Mirrors.
On this dying age of technology, the selfie, social media, our image, and its value are morphing at many levels. For us, it represents one of our most valuable tools to measure ourselves on the waves. Not only are we capturing memorable surreal moments out here, but we are also blasting HD definition on every move we make on this arena and can playback endlessly every evening and analyse the heck out of every step.
Whether you are a pro or a beginner, one will always need to keep asking the same questions: Do I know that which I don’t know? How do I know more about myself? How do I account for myself? Am I honest to myself? How deep can I go?
Our 4 most important surf tips we would like to share with you:
1. Know yourself
If given only one choice, would you instead have videos or photographs taken from your surf trip? Most will choose pictures. – Most of us look downright spastic on videos even if we are making sections or hiding in coverups or tubes. “hips don’t lie ” Shakira said -and She said it, and she meant in some wild way, but it also applies to the dance you perform on the wave. The way you swing your hips in different directions through vectors will have you connect and transfer your energy smoothly through sections. Done out of sync, it will display a dysfunctional array of flying loose puppetry limbs. By being aware of your hip movement, and forecasting and visualising what you should do, mentally print a 4d map in your brain, a video of yourself from the moment you take off and bottom turn, top turn or barrel, cut back or trim, and on your next surf, you will already be improving. Your core; your hips are the critical first movement after identifying the target within your sight. Everything else will attempt to balance through that move. Success depends on how well your limbs can adjust, and how flexible they can accommodate to transfer energy.
2. Will it
You are nothing but water, and what you think of yourself you become.
Masters, find water under the last layer of truth they need to peel. Then they understand ‘the truth’. Like water, truth shapes that which is covering. Give attention to your moves. Think of your head like a goldfish bowl; a light, empty crystal aquarium, and every thought you put in there will add weight and colour. Think responsibly to avoid breaking and leaking the pot. The age of fake news is here, and it’s everywhere, spewing non-stop at inches distance from your face, so do yourself a big favour and leave that aside and watch the abundant and magnificent HD short videos of surfers and study their movements. Shape your steps; you shape your reality. Point your attention in the right direction.
3. Account for it
If not, how the devils will you know any better?
You won’t be able to know what you are doing wrong until you can compare, analyse your self. Being scientific and honest to yourself is mandatory if you ever want to improve on anything you do. Other aspects of your life will improve once you take a more scientific approach.
4. Will it again
Repeat and keep a log of it. Once you start feeling the release of a proper turn, you will understand how sexy gravity can be, and you will be hooked, getting faster and swifter.
I find that Mentawais is the perfect arena to take a shot, at what your current surfing condition is. It is not only a surfing holiday, its an opportunity to blend in with the remote Indian ocean and perfect your moves despite your surfing level.
We have a few 40th celebrations happening at the camp this year. We hope to see you there!
With Sincere Kindness
The MSC Team
Guest Post published by www.makalani.net